I wonder how many New Year resolutions have already been broken. I am still persevering with mine which was to cook more fish and seafood dishes. By the end of 2008 it had become obvious that some people were more adept at cooking accounting books than anything we could actually eat. I have made a pledge to myself to use fish at least once, but aiming for twice, a week.

First stop mussels.

This is a great time of year to cook mussels, they are easily available and don’t expire in the car on the way home as they can do in the summer. I try to pick them up in the afternoon if I plan on using them that night and I keep them in a large colander covered in ice in the sink until I am ready to cook.

Mussels with Coconut and Lemon Grass    -serves 4

4 pounds mussels, scrubbed clean and any fibers removed. Discard any that stay open when tapped.

1 stick of lemon grass, outer layers peeled off, the inside shredded as finely as possible, use only the bottom 2 inches

1 walnut sized knob of ginger peeled and grated

1 clove garlic, crushed

1 chili, deseeded and chopped fine

6 kaffir lime leaves, (available in the fresh herb selection of supermarkets) very finely shredded or the finely grated rind and juice of half a lime

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 cup dry white wine

½ cup coconut milk

2 tablespoons Asian fish sauce

1 cup chopped cilantro

In a very large pan, heat the oil and add all the aromatics, -from lemon grass down to oil. Fry on a low to medium heat for just a couple of minutes.

Splash in the wine and coconut milk and bring to the boil. Add the cleaned mussels, cover tightly and cook on high for two minutes, uncover and stir the mussels trying to get those from the top down to the bottom. The mussels are cooked as soon as the shells open, try not to overcook them, this all happens very quickly! Stir in the fish sauce and cilantro and taste the liquor in the pot. If the wine was very acidic you may need to add some more coconut milk to balance the flavors.

Serve the mussels and their sauce with crusty bread or, more authentically, plain boiled rice.

Moules Mariniere    -serves 4.

This is the classic French way of serving mussels.

4 pounds of mussels, treated as above

3 cloves garlic, crushed

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 cup dry white wine

1 cup finely chopped parsley

In a large pan, heat the oil and the garlic over a low heat until the garlic is softened, about 5 minutes.

Add the wine to the pot and raise the heat so that the wine comes to a rolling boil.

Throw in the mussels and boil until they open, -just a couple of minutes.

Serve the mussels with a loaf of crusty bread, a green salad dressed with a mustardy dressing and a platter of French cheeses.

You’ll be speaking French in no time.