Dining Out: Take a culinary tour of the world at Big Fish Grille

Big fish, little fish, baked fish, grilled. Salmon fish, rockfish, hot fish, chilled. You can get pretty much any kind of fish your heart desires at Crofton's thriving Big Fish Grille.

And varied is most assuredly the operative word, for the Appetizer list alone takes you from "Bawlmer" (shrimp steamed with Old Bay) to the islands (Caribbean jerk preparations of beef and chicken) to Italy (white pizza and crab pizza) and then on a pan-Asian tour that includes sushi, Thai tastes and traditional Chinese dumplings. Your passport will be smokin'!

Our own appetizer selections moved to priority one after the service of our delightful Coppola Pinot Noir (always give the vintage years, people) which ordinarily sells for $49, but was only half that because we were there on one of the nights (Tuesday and Thursday) when Big Fish offers 50 percent off on bottles of wine. After a couple of satisfying sips, we turned out attention to the list of starters.

Our selections took the form of Fried Oysters ($11), Crab Stuffed Mushrooms ($15) and Soft-Shell Sliders ($14).

As we planned on sharing, these choices enabled us to assess the kitchen on its skill in dealing with oysters and soft-shell crabs (both can be problematic) as well as on its ability to up the ante with regard to something as potentially pedestrian as stuffed mushrooms. Nothing failed to please.

Reverent salaams to any and all kitchens that do a good job with oysters, and this kitchen certainly deserved the plaudits.

First, the oysters had been properly dried before being lightly encased in just the right amount of perfectly seasoned, crunchy batter. Next, the frying was done swiftly at a high temperature so that the lovely little bivalves wouldn't be greasy. The final touch was the sweet corn remoulade (there was cocktail sauce as well, but we didn't need it).

Equally enjoyable were the mushrooms, firm and fleshy and stuffed with succulent lump crab. The tops were then covered with grated parmesan, creating a crispy golden crust when baked. The mouth-watering imperial sauce that formed the base of the dish somehow found its way onto pieces of french bread from the breadbasket and disappeared into three approving diners.

Even though the first two appetizers were hard acts to follow, the soft-shell sliders took the prize. They were the quintessence of simplicity, just exquisitely flash-fried soft shells served in little hamburger buns. More of the sweet corn remoulade was the accompaniment and it set off both the crab and the oysters quite nicely.

All three of the appetizers were generous portions, with half-dozen stuffed mushrooms, three sliders and eight oysters. As an added benefit, they were easily divided evenly among the three of us (except for the oysters, and that was a no-brainer: the diners who had spent the day painting - not the artist kind - got the extra ones).

When it came to entrees, two members of our party honed in on the separate menu page that is designated The Fish List. That list offers six kinds of fish (subject, of course, to seasonal availability) and two sections of preparations.

The first section (herb-crusted, sweet Cajun, teriyaki, and sauteed) involves styles that are offered at no additional charge, but the second section (New Orleans style, crab-smothered, and lobster-smothered) may be selected for an additional charge of $5.

The first diner opted for the Chesapeake Rockfish ($24) and had it sauteed with butter, garlic, herbs and fresh lemon. Simple and delicious. The accompanying rice pilaf and steamed veggies were satisfactory.

The other member of our party who ordered from the fish list chose the Atlantic Flounder ($18) and elected to have it served New Orleans style. The spiciness was the only detectable link to New Orleans cuisine, and the sauce was a bit more assertive than one would ordinarily think optimal for a delicate fish like flounder. Somehow, though, it all worked perfectly. The fish held its own against the lovely piquant and cheesy sauce, and the lump crab additions sealed the deal. Yummy. This dish also came with rice pilaf and steamed vegetables.

The final diner in our group decided to explore the land section of the menu and, based on the recommendation from our engaging server, opted for the "Baseball" Cut Sirloin ($19). It's always refreshing to find a knowledgeable server, and ours explained patiently about how this cut received its name (smaller in circumference but extremely thick). He was properly thanked by the happy carnivore who enjoyed the tender and flavorful cut of beef. The accompanying garlic mashed potatoes and tasty asparagus received high marks as well.

Our painters decided on dessert and ended up with an exemplary creme brulee ($6) and a sweetly rewarding Apple Blossom ($6). Both desserts were tasty and provided just the proper finishing touch for a most enjoyable meal.

Could it get any better than this?

Indeed it could, our accommodating server passed along to the bartender that the TV channel be changed to ESPN so the 66.6 percent of our group who are Tar Heels could check on the game.

Felicitously, our Heels were beating Virginia Tech. Not only that, but a neighboring diner who overheard our request turned out to be a UNC grad as well (received his doctorate in English there). Turns out, it was Peter Stitt who is a professor at Gettysburg College and editor of the extremely prestigious Gettysburg Review. You never know what fortuitous events may transpire when you venture to Crofton for dinner at The Big Fish Grille.

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A Final Note: As we enter the holiday season, we're going to be meeting friends for drinks, going to parties, getting together after work, doing many of the things we associate with celebrating.

Keep one thing in mind, always: being "overserved" and driving an automobile are never ever going to mix.

Use a taxi, call a friend, designate a driver, do whatever it takes to keep yourself (as well as your driving record and your reputation) and others safe.

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WHEN YOU GO

WHAT: The Big Fish Grille
WHERE: 1260 South Crain Highway, Crofton.
PHONE: 410-451-3133.
WEB SITE: www.thebigfishgrille.com
HOURS: 4-11 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 4-midnight Friday,  11 a.m.-midnight Saturday,  11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday.
EXECUTIVE CHEF: Jacob Pulcher.
APPETIZERS: $7-$15.
ENTRÉES: $16-$35.
RESERVATIONS: Accepted.
CREDIT CARDS: All major credit cards are accepted.
CCESSIBILITY: Yes.
 

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Terra Walters is a freelance writer and editor based in Annapolis.