In Shakespeare's tragedy "Richard III," the Duke of Gloucester addresses the Bishop of Ely with these words:
When I was last in Holborn,
I saw good strawberries in your garden there:
I do beseech you send for some of them.
Although Shakespeare's duke may have craved strawberries enough to have them shipped across the country, strawberries haven't always been thought of as a treat. In fact, the Romans only occasionally mentioned the strawberry in their writings, casually referring to the medicinal purposes of the fruit. Later, 12th-century community leaders warned people away from strawberries, which were believed tainted by toads and snakes inhabiting the cool soil under the plant's leaves.
It wasn't until the mid 1500s that demand for strawberries stimulated cultivation in England and France. In his "Five Hundred Points of Good Husbandry" (1557), Tusser writes to women:
Wife, into the garden and set me a plot
With strawberry roots, the best to be got;
Such growing abroad among thorns in the wood,
Well chosen and picked, prove excellent good.
By the end of that century the strawberry's popularity was general. Hyll notes in "Gardener's Labyrinth" (1593):
They be much eaten at all men's tables in the sommer time with wine and sugar, and they will grow in gardens until the bigness of the mulberry. (The strawberry) requires small labour, but, by diligence of the gardener, becometh so great that the same yieldeth faire and big berries.
In the early 1800s, Americans were planting strawberries in home gardens, but because of the fruit's fragile nature, it could not be shipped far from home. The first "refrigerated" shipping of strawberries across the United States occurred in 1843, when growers spread ice on top of strawberry boxes before transport. Now, with modern refrigeration and transportation, berries can be mass-produced and shipped overnight across the country for our enjoyment.
Is it possible that in our century we take this popular fruit for granted - that we have strayed from the authentic taste of a fresh berry for the sake of an easily appeased midwinter craving? Large, round, red berries can be found in grocery store aisles year-round even though the fruit peaks in late spring for just a few weeks. Berries on market shelves in the middle of winter may come from as far away as the Southern Hemisphere or from an environment as sterile as a hothouse.
Although shipped berries are admittedly adequate, they simply don't compare in taste, texture, appearance or pure strawberryness with a local, fresh-from-the-farm berry. Once a fresh berry has been enjoyed at its peak of ripeness - simultaneously warm from the sun, refreshingly juicy, sweet and tender in all of its summer glory - a grocery berry will never suffice.
A berry local story
Tim and Jim Hopkins, owners of Mount Airy U-Pick Strawberry Farm, must have strawberries in their blood. Their maternal grandmother grew up in the early 1900s on Hunters Retreat, a truck farm located in Linthicum. Her family grew the berries, which were then "trucked"
(in this case via the railroad) into markets in Baltimore City. She later moved to Anne Arundel County, where she married into the Hopkins family.
Owners of Mount Airy Farm, a large estate established prior to the Civil War, the Hopkinses had successfully produced tobacco for generations. Mrs. Hopkins' new husband purchased land from his father across the street from the original family manor. Together the new couple began a farm of their own, also known as Mount Airy Farm, which their grandchildren, Tim and Jim, inherited.
Although Mount Airy Farm was originally a tobacco farm, the Hopkinses started planting berries there 30 years ago. Pints of berries were sold from the side porch of Tim and Jim's childhood home. When the family realized a strong demand for their berries, they began to phase out tobacco in favor of a you-pick strawberry operation.
Today, the Hopkinses, with their wives, children and grandchildren, manage about 31/2 acres of strawberries on a portion of the farm. In an area that once hosted multiple berry picking opportunities, Mount Airy U-Pick Farm is the last to offer you-pick strawberries in Anne Arundel County.
The Hopkinses are hospitable in an old-fashioned way, providing berry boxes that prevent crushing and bruising, and charging just $1.65 per pound for strawberries. The family also grows raspberries and is starting a vegetable garden from which customers may be able to order organically grown vegetables.
The season for strawberry picking is very short: only three brief weeks beginning this year at the end of May. The Hopkinses cultivate the "Early Grow" variety of berries, which should peak in the next week to 10 days, depending on the weather. They also grow the "Ovation" variety, which is a late berry peaking about two weeks after the Early Grow. The split season is actually beneficial for berry lovers, who can take advantage of a second round of fresh ripe berries just as their first pickings become merely fond memories.
While Tim Hopkins hopes that picking can begin this weekend, the exact dates of peak ripeness are difficult to predict, so the Hopkins family recommends that you call the farm for hours of operation and opening days.
Picking berries makes for an active, fun and tasty family outing, but with all the fun comes a reminder about farm etiquette. Young children and toddlers (generally, kids under 6 years of age) eat their fill of berries, then naturally want to run through the fields. The Hopkinses request that at least one grown-up be available for every two young children. They don't allow pets on the farm, even in waiting cars. Also, berry picking is a very popular pastime, and Mount Airy Farm's parking lot fills up fast. In previous years, folks found parking places on an adjacent farm, the side of Mount Airy Road or even in neighbors' driveways. It's preferable for berry lovers to park in designated spots.
Mount Airy U-Pick Farm is located at Route 424 (Davidsonville Road) and Mount Airy Road in Davidsonville. The farm is a short 15-minute drive from Annapolis or Crofton. Hours for picking are generally 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. weekdays and 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday. Please call the farm at 410-798-1862 or 410-798-0838 for up-to-the-minute information on berry ripeness, farm hours and directions.
Be berry careful
Because of their brilliant red color and sensuous, heart-shaped form, strawberries have been associated with Venus, the goddess of love. Accordingly, they should be treated with extra care and a tender touch.
Because strawberries do not ripen after they are picked, select only those with a fresh, shiny look and bright red color. Check to see that the green stems, too, look fresh and not wilted. Refrigerate soon after purchasing the berries.
Do not wash the strawberries until shortly before ready to serve. Berries are highly perishable, and the extra water on them causes their cells to break down more quickly.
Wash and cut only what you plan to use immediately.
If you are picking fresh strawberries, use a shallow basket or bowl and don't pile them more than two layers high. Too many layers will crush the fragile berries on the bottom.
Berries are especially delicious at room temperature, so remove from refrigeration about half an hour before using.
To freeze strawberries, wash and dry them, remove the stems, and arrange them in a single layer on a baking sheet. Place the sheet in the freezer until the berries are solidly frozen. Then pack them into a zip-lock freezer bag and keep them frozen until ready to use.
A berry fun time
Here are a few local strawberry festivals, all featuring family fun and great food:
Beckwith United Methodist Church Strawberry Festival, May 24. Held at the Neck District Fire Hall, 954 Cooks Point Road in Cambridge. For more information, call 410-228-7807.
29th annual Ridgely Strawberry Festival, May 25. Held at Martin Sutton Memorial Park on Route 450 in Ridgely, formerly known as "The Strawberry Capital of the World." For more information, call 410-634-1184.
Davidsonville United Methodist Church Strawberry Festival, May 24. Held at the church, 819 W. Central Ave. in Davidsonville. For more information, call 410-798-1234.
Cape St. Claire Strawberry Festival, May 31. An annual fete held on Cape St. Claire's main beach off River Bay Road. For more information, call 410-757-1223.
25th annual Colesville Strawberry Festival, May 31. Held at the Old Colesville School, Hobbs Drive and New Hampshire Avenue in Montgomery County. For more information, call 301-384-6651 or visit the Web site at www.greatercolesville.org.
18th annual Sykesville Strawberry Festival, May 31. Held at the Sykesville-Freedom Firegrounds, Route 32 and Freedom Avenue. For more information, call 410-489-5232 or 410-795-9174.
St. Luke's United Methodist Church Strawberry Festival and Craft Show, June 7. Held at the church, 304 Talbot St. in St. Michaels. For more information, call 410-745-2534.
Wesley Grove United Methodist Church Strawberry Festival, June 7. Held at the church, 1320 Dorsey Road in Hanover. For more information, call 410-761-9119.
18th annual Ann Arrundell County Historical Society Strawberry Festival, June 14. Held at the Benson-Hammond House, Aviation Boulevard and Andover Road in Linthicum. For more information call 410-768-9518.
Berry good recipes
PINK AND PUFFY STRAWBERRY CHIFFON PIE
From "Kathy Casey's Northwest Table" by Kathy Casey
Crust:
- 1 1/2 cup very finely crushed vanilla wafer cookies
- 6 tablespoons butter, melted
- 1/4 cup sugar
Filling:
- 1 pint fresh strawberries, stemmed and sliced
- 3/4 cup sugar
- 1/2 cup cranberry or cran-raspberry juice cocktail
- 1 envelope unflavored gelatin
- 1/2 cup heavy whipping cream
- 2 egg whites
Garnishes:
- Fresh whipped cream
- Fresh strawberries with stems, halved lengthwise
For the crust, preheat oven to 375 degrees. Mix all the ingredients in a medium bowl, then put the mixture in a 9-inch pie pan, pressing evenly into the bottom and sides of the pan. Bake 6 to 8 minutes, then let cool.
For the filling, combine the berries and 1/2 cup sugar in a food processor and pulse lightly. You can also use your hands or a potato masher. Let the mixture sit for exactly 10 minutes before continuing.
In a small saucepan, combine the juice and gelatin over low heat until the gelatin is just dissolved, then pour into a large bowl and let cool.
Add the strawberry mixture to the cooled gelatin mixture. Refrigerate, stirring occasionally, until partially set.
Whip the cream in a mixer until very stiff, then refrigerate. In a clean, grease-free bowl, mix the egg whites at high speed until soft peaks form. Add the remaining 1/4 cup sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time, beating until stiff, glossy peaks form.
Gently fold the egg whites into the strawberry mixture, then gradually and gently fold in the cream. Mound the filling into the cooked pie shell. Refrigerate until the filling is firm, at least 3 hours.
Garnish with sweetened whipped cream and halved strawberries.
CLASSIC AMERICAN STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE
From "The '21' Cookbook" by Michael Lomonaco
For maximum flakiness, do not overmix. The dough should remain lumpy and mealy in texture in order to achieve a truly delicate cake.
Shortcake:
- 1 cup sifted all-purpose flour
- 3 tablespoons granulated sugar
- 1 teaspoon baking powder
- 1/4 teaspoon salt
- 1/4 cup buttermilk
- 1/4 cup heavy cream
- 3 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces, plus 1 tablespoon butter (for the cookie sheet)
Filling:
Topping:
- 1 cup heavy cream
- 2 tablespoons confectioners' sugar
- 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Garnish:
To make the shortcakes, combine the flour, sugar, baking powder and salt in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a dough hook. After the dry ingredients are thoroughly blended, add the buttermilk, cream and cold butter in quick succession, combining only briefly, to leave the mixture as lumpy as possible. (Or use a food processor fitted with a dough blade. Combine the dry ingredients, pulse briefly, then add the liquid ingredients and butter, and pulse briefly.)
Turn this lumpy dough out onto a lightly floured board and flatten gently with a rolling pin into a squarish shape approximately 1 inch thick. Cut into 6 equal squares. Spread 1 tablespoon butter on a nonstick cookie sheet, place the squares on the sheet, and place the entire cookie sheet in the refrigerator to rest 20 minutes while you preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Bake the chilled shortcakes 20 to 25 minutes, or until they are nicely browned.
While the shortcakes are baking, make the filling and topping. Clean and slice the strawberries. Whip the heavy cream, powdered sugar and vanilla together into soft peaks. When the shortcakes are finished baking, allow them to cool 5 minutes. Then split them in half, slather the bottom with 2 or 3 tablespoons whipped cream and 1/2 cup sliced strawberries, cover with the top biscuit, and sprinkle with confectioners' sugar.
STRAWBERRY RICOTTA HOTCAKES
From "Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner" by Bradley Ogden
- 1 cup all-purpose flour
- 1 teaspoon baking powder
- 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
- 1/4 teaspoon salt
- 2 tablespoons sugar
- 3 tablespoons unsalted butter melted
- 1/2 cup ricotta cheese
- 3/4 cup milk
- 1 egg, separated
- Grated zest of 1 lemon
- 3/4 cup thinly sliced fresh strawberries
In a large mixing bowl, sift together the dry ingredients. In a medium bowl, combine the melted butter, ricotta cheese, milk, egg yolk and lemon zest. Mix well.
Make a well in the dry ingredients and add the milk mixture, stirring until the dry ingredients are just moistened. In a small, dry, clean bowl, beat the egg white until soft peaks form. Gently fold the egg white into the batter. Add the berries, being careful not to overmix.
Grease a seasoned pancake griddle, if necessary, and place over moderate heat. The griddle is hot enough when a few drops of water dance on the surface. Using a scant 1/4 cup of batter for each hotcake (unless otherwise instructed), pour the batter onto the hot griddle. Cook the hotcakes on the first side until they are puffed and full of bubbles, looking dry at the edges, then turn and cook for 1 minute or until cooked through.
STRAWBERRY, CITRUS AND STRAWBERRY JAM
From Epicurious.com
- 9 cups strawberries (from 4 pints), hulled and quartered
- 2 cups sugar
- 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice (from 1 medium lemon)
- 1 tablespoon Campari
- Finely grated zest of 1 medium orange
Chill two small plates for testing jam.
In heavy 5-quart pot, combine 6 cups strawberries and sugar. Using potato masher, crush and mix fruit. Set mixture over moderate heat; bring to boil and cook, skimming and stirring frequently, 10 minutes. Add lemon juice and 2 to 3 tablespoons water.
Lower heat to moderate, maintain gentle boil, and cook, uncovered, skimming and stirring frequently, another 20 minutes.
Remove pot from heat and test jam for doneness: Drop spoonful onto chilled plate and refrigerate 1 minute, then tilt plate; jam should remain in soft mound and run slightly. If jam is very runny, return pot to heat and continue boiling 10 minutes, then re-test. When jam reaches proper consistency, stir in remaining strawberries, Campari and orange zest. Cool to room temperature before serving.
