Legendary winemaker Jess Jackson likes to keep an eye on his legion of winery operations spread throughout California. But imagine being the winemaker whose operation is within eyesight of the big boss.
That's the job for Graham Weerts, winemaker of Stonestreet Alexander Mountain Estate wines in Sonoma County. It is here that Mr. Jackson found an idyllic place to live and also saw a future in sturdy wines made from mountain-grown grapes.
But it isn't easy.
"Throw everything out the door and start again," says Mr. Weerts. Most of what he learned in his native Cape Town, South Africa, didn't apply to this difficult growing region when he arrived in 2004.
Fog that settles on the valley floor actually allows grapes to ripen at elevations as high as 2,400 feet. While neighboring vineyards sit on plateaus, Stonestreet's vineyards are on steep slopes that defy mechanical harvesting. Rows of grapes are planted vertically and have to be monitored carefully because the grapes rapidly change ripeness. A wide variety of soil types poses a challenge as well.
Making wine is one thing; making good wine under these conditions is another. Stonestreet has managed to produce outstanding chardonnays and awesome, complex cabernet sauvignons for which mountain-grown grapes are known.
We were actually introduced to the wines from these vineyards when Allan Hemphill was making incredibly rich chardonnays in the early 1990s under the Gauer Estate Vineyards label - Mr. Jackson bought the vineyards in 1995. They were among the best chardonnays we tasted at the tim, so it's not surprising that these Stonestreet chardonnays are great too.
Eschewing the flabby, oak-soaked chardonnays that dominate the market, Stonestreet's chardonnays have bright acidity and a mineral character that is best paired with food.
With low yields and labor-intensive harvesting, prices for these wines are as steep as the vineyard's slopes. But at these prices you'll taste the unique qualities that come from labor-intensive mountain-grown grapes.
The 2005 chardonnays are on the shelf now, but the 2006 whites and 2005 reds will begin appearing in a couple of months.
Stonestreet Alexander Mountain Estate Chardonnay 2005 ($25). Sixty-five percent of this wine undergoes malolatic fermentation in French oak to tame the acidity. The result is a creamy citrus flavor with plenty of apple and mineral notes. A complex wine for the price.
Stonestreet Alexander Mountain Estate Upper Barn Chardonnay 2005 ($42). This is one of the best chardonnays we have tasted in a long time. The oldest vineyard in the estate collection, Upper Barn straddles a 1,800-foot ridge. Its gravelly soil yields low quantities of grapes, but the fruit produces complex wines with a mineral thread. Orange peel aromas introduce a layered wine with flavors of pineapples, peaches and great spice from the French oak it is aged in.
Stonestreet Alexander Valley Mountain Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($42). Unlike the 2004, this wine is mostly cabernet sauvignon with only 5 percent blended with cabernet franc. The fruit is bright and redolent of blackberry and cherry flavors with hints of cedar and mocha. The 2005 won't be on the market for a couple of months.
Stonestreet Alexander Mountain Estate Legacy 2004 ($75). This blend of Bordeaux grapes is a charmer. Using grapes planted 2,400 feet up, it has good complexity with a voluptuous mouthfeel. Ripe plums, dark chocolate, cherries and pure fruit flavors.
Stonestreet Alexander Mountain Estate Christropher's Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($100). Wow, what a mouthful of complex fruit. Made in great years, this reserve wine is named after Mr. Jackson's son. Both are something for him to be proud of. It is a huge wine with firm tannins, cedar, mint and currant notes stand behind the layered black cherry, cassis flavors. Only 250 cases made, so it may be hard to find.
Masi Amarones
We have written several times about the unusual and tasty amarones from Italy. We recently tasted three single-vineyard amarones that are even more unique.
Amarone is made in an ancient method of drying the grapes on bamboo racks in September and pressing partially dry grapes in February. With nearly 40 percent less juice, the cost of the wine is considerably more. But the flavors are intense and the texture soft.
Masi, one of the top producers of amarones, makes four single vineyard versions that emphasize the personality of each vineyard.
Here's what we tasted:
Masi Campolongo di Torbe Amarone Classico 2001 ($135). Lots of elegance in the blend of corvina (70 percent), rondinella and molinara. Classic rasin aromas followed by sweet flavors of cherries, cocoa and spice. Soft texture but deceiving tannins make this a delicious wine for current or long-term drinking.
Serego Alighiei Vaio Armaron Amarone Classico 2001 ($75). Varietal cherry aromas with intriguing violets and rosemary notes. Plum and mocha flavors add to the enticing package.
Masi Costasera Amarone Classico 2004 ($80). Raisins and prunes dominate the armoas with cherries, mocha and cinnamon on the palate. Long finished, velvet texture.
Masi Mazzano Amarone Classico 2001 ($135). Vanilla and plums stand out in the bouquet of this unbelieveable wine. Full bodied yet soft on the palate, it has layered fruit of plums and cherries. Long finish.
Wine tasting
Harry Browne's restaurant, the Naval Academy Primary School and Land Rover will host a wine tasting to raise money for the Breast Cancer Research tomorrow.
Appetizers and wines from around the world will be served at the dealership on Route 50 from 6:30 to 8:30 p.m.
The cost is $25 a person. For information, call the restaurant.
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