You've heard about Maryland's famous steamed Chesapeake Bay blue crabs, but haven't tried any yet? Here's an introduction to get you aquainted with the state's "beautiful swimmers."

Choosing among different crab meats

Newcomers to Maryland and old timers alike are sometimes confused by the various grading designations given to the picked crab. Fran Jaques, The Capital's Food Editor reports that the Seafood Marketing Program of the Maryland Department of Agriculture uses the following grades:

Jumbo Lump includes the largest pieces of meat from the body portion adjacent to the backfin. This is preferable for use in recipes where appearance is important, such as crab imperial and crab salad although it can be used in any recipe and is the most expensive crab meat.

Backfin is the white body meat consisting of lump and flakes. Pieces are smaller than jumbo lump but can substitute for lump meat. It's good for crab cakes.

Special consists of the flakes of white body meat other than the lump meat. It's good for crab soups, casseroles and dips.

Claw is the brownish meat from the claws. It is more flavorful and good for crab soups and can be used in crab cakes if mixed with backfin.

Fran reports that fresh Maryland crab meat is available from April 1 through Nov. 30. Pasteurized crab meat is available all year. The pasteurized meat is hermetically sealed in the can and subjected to a heat process that prevents spoilage. It can be stored in the refrigerator, unopened, for several months. Once opened it will be fresh for 3 to 5 days, the same as regular crab meat.

She says that most restaurants in Maryland must mix local crab meat with that obtained from the South just to keep up with the demand for crab dishes. Some of the largest suppliers, like Phillips Seafood Restaurants, import crab meat from Asia, mostly the Philippines.

Or, you can try steaming your own

But if the price of crab meat has you a bit worried, you can sometimes find live crabs at a better price - or catch your own! - and steam them yourself. Yes, you'll need to pick the crab meat, and it takes some time. But locals will tell you there's no better crab meat than that which you've picked yourself.

Steamed Crabs

(1) Extra large steaming pot with insert and lid
(1) Pair extra long tongs and/or heavy rubber gloves

6 live large male crabs
Old Bay or crab seasoning
1 cup distilled white vinegar
2 cups flat beer or water

Fill the bottom of the steam pot with the liquid, just up to the holes in the bottom of the steam insert. Add more water or beer if needed. Hint: Some cooks drink the beer while it's cold, and just use the water and vinegar on the crabs.

Bring the liquid to a boil. Layer crabs in the pot. This may sound easier than it is. They actually don't want to go in the pot. You may wish to remove small children and dogs' noses from the immediate vicinity and make sure you're not barefoot. Any "jimmies" that get away on to a counter or floor are usually in a bad mood.

Generously sprinkle each crab, or layer of crabs, with the seasoning as you put them in the pot. Cover and steam for 15 minutes.

Picking Steamed Crabs

• Break off backfin legs and remove clumps of meat
• Break legs at joint and remove meat - squeezing the legs will help
• Break off claws - crack at joint and pull apart; tap with mallet to get at meat
• Turn crab on its back and pull back t-shaped tab
• Insert thumb at that point and pull off shell
• Remove lungs from the top of the cartilage - they are finger-like and white
• Remove goop from between the two sides - some people eat this
• Crack two sides apart gently
• Scoop, scrape, cut and otherwise pick at that crab meat nestled in all the nooks and crannies!

Of course, you can enjoy it right then and there. Some people use melted butter, vinegar, mayonnaise or more seasoning as a condiment. Or set the meat aside and try one of our crab recipes.

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