At first blush, reviewing a restaurant like Ruth’s Chris could be an exercise in futility.
You know the steaks are going to be the next tenderest thing to Kobe beef. You know they’re going to be broiled perfectly to your order with juices seared in at 1800 degrees and served sizzling in butter on a 500 degree plate. You know the service is going to be attentive, friendly and knowledgeable. You know they’re not going to mess with success.
| WHEN
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