One would expect, if asking for driving directions to the Magic Kingdom, to hear: Take I-95 to Richmond, I-85 to Atlanta, and I-75 to Orlando. There's a much easier and faster way, though - just cross the Bay Bridge, take Exit 42, turn right at the end of the ramp, and proceed to Annie's Paramount.
You won't find any rides though, and you won't find any long, hot lines in the sun or Mickey and Minnie. What you'll find is the exquisitely decorated restaurant that has long been a favorite of locals as well as residents of and visitors to the Eastern Shore.
Whether you're scheduling a wedding, a rehearsal dinner, a big office party, or just a family get-together, be sure to include Annie's in your holiday plans. Once you enter, you'll be swept up in a magic fantasy created by thousands of tiny glittering white lights, shimmering Christmas trees and a backdrop of beautiful music.
Annie's provides a pianist playing old standards, yet another example of the Katinas family's long-standing efforts to pull out all the stops in pleasing their guests.
Another example of those efforts was evidenced by the hostess' choice of a table for our party: "I thought you'd enjoy this one because it's close enough to enjoy the piano without having it interrupt your conversation."
The table she selected was spacious and positioned far enough away from its neighbors to allow everyone ample breathing room and talking room. No sooner had menus been placed before us than the busboy was there to fill water glasses and offer tasty rolls (choices of sourdough and poppy seed) from a serving basket.
It's easy to see why Annie's Paramount Steak and Seafood House has won awards for its wine list. First, it's encyclopedic both in terms of size and edification. Vintages are provided, 15 creditable wines are offered by the glass, and descriptions are helpful to those conversant in winespeak as well as instructive to those who are somewhat less savvy.
Only two members in our party of four were interested in having wine, so those two decided to take advantage of the opportunity to order glasses of white and red respectively. The diner who planned to order seafood was quite happy with the tried and true 2005 Kendall Jackson Grand Reserve chardonnay ($10 per glass, $38 per bottle) and the diner who had decided on Annie's always-tasty prime rib selected the 2002 Sheep's Back shiraz, a tasty Australian red that is offered for $9.50 by the glass and $38 per bottle.
The list of appetizers on Annie's menu runs the gamut from cold to hot and from traditional to uncommon and special. Families with young members might enjoy the Stuffed Potato Skins ($8) or the Mozzarella Sticks ($9), while diners with more sophisticated palates might explore such interesting starters as the Baked Oysters Rogier topped with the chef's special sauce of bacon, horseradish and parmigiano-reggiano cheese ($10); or the Seared Diver Scallops (served in parmesan tuiles and topped with a homemade three-mustard sauce for $10).
Our own selections that evening involved one from the list of cold appetizers and one from the hot list.
The Bufala Mozzarella Napoleon ($10) was presented beautifully, layered with slices of imported cheese, prosciutto ham, and tomato. Served atop a mouth-watering balsamic reduction, this appetizer pleased all four diners who shared it.
Also receiving high marks was the Crab Pizza ($10), an item that only began appearing on local menus within the past few years. Annie's version seems to have more depth and complexity than other examples I've tried. The crust, quite yeasty and good, could have been just a bit crisper; but it was very tasty. Additions of spinach and oven-roasted tomatoes contributed to the success of the pizza, but it was the abundance of jumbo lump crab and a subtle use of spices that sent the dish over the top.
At Annie's, the pasta dishes come with a salad and garlic bread, but other entrees include two choices from among a list of side dishes including salad, cole slaw, beets, stewed tomatoes and rice. There are three potato dishes on the list as well: baked, mashed and french fried. For $3.50 each, diners may add such items as asparagus, sauteed mushrooms, or creamed spinach. Members of our party stayed with the more conventional selections of baked potato and salad.
Side salads rarely rate a special mention, but these were especially fresh and interesting. On the plus side, the dressings were yummy; on the minus side, the homemade croutons were a bit unmanageable by virtue of the fact that they were quite large and didn't respond well to efforts to cut them into smaller, more edible pieces.
Even though our party already had been favorably impressed with service, ambiance, first courses, and salads, it was with the delivery of the entrees that the wow factor kicked in big time. The superlatives being bandied about included, "This is the best lobster tail I've ever tasted," and "I've never had better salmon in my life."
Those are some pretty formidable compliments, but proffered bites confirmed that the praise was justified. The diner who ordered the lobster tail (listed under Specialties of the House and market priced that evening at $37) proclaimed it to be succulent, flavorful and completely exceeding expectations. Another "touch" that one finds at Annie's is the lemon that accompanies the seafood dishes: There isn't just a small wedge of lemon, but rather half of a large lemon that has been thoughtfully tied in mesh to avoid having seeds pop into one's food.
One guest, enjoying a first visit to Annie's, opted for the stuffed flounder ($27) and was effusive with praise for the freshness of the fish as well as for the delectable crab imperial that had been made with a bounty of jumbo lump crab. A tip of the hat to Chef Wingard for the yummy imperial sauce that napped the dish.
Salmon ($20) was the felicitous choice of one of the out-of-town guests, and that diner had only good things to say about the firm and fresh salmon fillet that had been broiled in lemon butter and served atop a delicate cucumber dill sauce. To be familiar with the wide range of disparity associated with the cooking of a simple piece of broiled salmon is to understand how masterfully this kitchen operates.
The diner who has regularly visited Annie's since their opening more than 16 years ago, frequently orders the prime rib even though their seafood dishes are so extraordinary. As difficult as it is to pass up the fresh fish and shellfish, the prime rib won out yet again. It really isn't necessary to advertise this beef as Certified Angus, one bite is enough to tell you that. There are three cuts available, and the bountiful Queen Cut ($27) enjoyed by this member of the group left everyone wondering who on earth could finish the regular cut ($30), much less the King Cut for $33.
Lean, though well-marbled, the tender and tasty meat was cooked ideally to the medium rare that had been requested. As always, make sure you know if you're on the same page as the restaurant. At Annie's, they do know the proper definitions of rare, medium, etc., and they adhere to them strictly. So, if you're someone who usually orders rare beef because you're expecting the kitchen to send out medium rare, be forewarned.
One person deciding to have dessert was quite enough to lead the others down the path to perdition, and soon four happy diners were relishing shared bites of key lime pie ($6.50), chocolate fudge cake ($6.75), blackberry flan ($7) and the dastardly delicious Snickers pie ($6.75). We were all glad for the inherent truth in the adage "monkey see, monkey do." And by the end of the evening, we had created two new converts to the fan club for Annie's Paramount.
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A Final Note: Another recent visit to the Eastern Shore involved a delightful lunch at Rustico in Stevensville. The warm and pleasantly appointed dining room, even on a Monday at midday, was filled with happy eaters. Owner-chef Ivano Scotto (who, with his wife Michelina, also owns Luna Blu on West Street) continues to provide delicious Italian food to his appreciative patrons. After the unfortunate experiences with the previous restaurant at that site (the former Love Point Cafe), residents of the close-in Eastern Shore certainly deserve to have such a good restaurant to frequent and to enjoy.
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Terra Walters is a freelance writer and editor based in Annapolis.
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