Dining Out: Severn Inn: Extraordinary cuisine, service, view

So, when you start seeing light at the end of the tunnel and you're reasonably certain that it isn't the locomotive hurtling toward you, what do you do? Easy. You reward yourself. You deserve a treat, so you go to the Severn Inn.

As we arrived, we were lamenting that it was already dark at 7:30, but when we gazed out from our window-side table at the lights of the Naval Academy reflected like sparkling diamonds in the darkened waters of the Severn, we changed our minds.

Cocktails always are the first order of business at Severn Inn for their drinks are really big and really good. Our orders (Woodford Premium Bourbon on the rocks for $9, Sapphire martinis for $9, and Mount Gay Rum with tonic for $6.50) arrived promptly at the table, followed quickly by the obligatory order of Crispy Spinach ($5). The spinach is listed as a side dish, but we always order it for an appetizer because it's perfect with drinks and it's a marvelous way to start what is invariably a memorable meal.

Fortunately, the four of us learned well the kindergarten lesson about sharing, for each of us was willing to offer up tastes of dishes that we might have preferred to save just for ourselves. Among those being passed around was a delicious and beautifully presented Roasted Red and Yellow Beet Salad ($10) that was lightly dressed with an apple cider vinaigrette, served with an interesting assortment of mixed greens, and pointed up with bleu cheese and frosted walnuts. This dish would make salad lovers of even the most dedicated greens haters.

One more starter caught our attention, this one - from the list of specials for the evening (prices on this section of the menu are generally lower) - an order of Crispy Duck Spring Rolls ($14) that featured crispy wrappers filled with tender bits of duck served amid a tempting salad of greens, cucumbers, tomatoes, shaved sweet onion and shredded Asian cabbage. The dressing for the salad, a spicy Chinese mustard vinaigrette, added just the right bit of punch.

Rarely does our group even eat bread at a restaurant (we'd rather save room for better stuff) but this evening, we found ourselves actually requesting a second basket of bread because it was so wonderful. Definitely use your bread carbs on this treat.

As always, the decision with regard to ordering entrees was a difficult one to make at the Severn Inn. Not only is the regular menu quite appealing, but Chef Philip's list of specials always holds some attractive dishes as well. Ultimately, we crossed the spectrum from fish to shellfish to lamb to beef, and everyone - because of the impressive range of skills in this kitchen - hit a home run. Not only that, but the 2007 Strozzi Sangiovese ($28) from Severn Inn's formidable wine list paired well with each main dish.

The diner who finds it difficult to turn down rockfish in any form rhapsodized about the Sauteed Wild Rockfish ($28) from the list of specials. Fresh and succulent, the bass sat atop a drizzle of mouth-watering red wine reduction sauce and was accompanied by mashed potatoes (like grandma used to make) and crispy threads of perfectly fried onion. A tour de force.

One member of our party decided that a bleak and chilly day was the perfect time for the Thai Fisherman's Seafood Stew ($32) and welcomed the steaming bowl filled with shrimp, scallops, clams, mussels and tilapia. The stew cooked slowly in a broth of coconut milk with red curry, fresh cilantro and scallions. It was served with organic brown basmati rice infused with lemon grass, and the dish worked perfectly.

The lamb lover in our group is often disappointed with the preparation of lamb in restaurants (he does a masterful job cooking it himself) but had only complimentary things to say about the Grilled Garlic-Herb Crusted New Zealand Rack of Lamb ($37). The tender and flavorful lamb, cooked just to pink as requested, was allowed to take center stage as it was served with just a bit of lamb jus, some grilled artichoke hearts and a smattering of flageolet beans to provide the supporting cast.

When you can cook lamb that well, you don't need to get too fancy or too busy.

Preparing a flawless filet mignon is no easy task, but Severn Inn's scrumptious filet defined excellence. Accented with a mushroom and bleu cheese stuffing, the beef was napped with a balsamic glaze and served with cipollini onions and an incredible porcini bread pudding (ranks up there with Emeril Lagasse's).

If one has the opportunity to dine on food this outstanding, one should be willing to go to the kitchen and haul it out one's self. But the impeccable service provided by our server Linda further enhanced our enjoyment of the meal. There didn't seem to be any suggestion that justifiably could be made in terms of how the dinner or the service could be improved.

Again, our party got checkmarks in the "plays nice with others" column (as opposed to "runs with scissors") when we happily shared the three spectacular desserts (each $8) among the four of us. It was a toss up between the delectable apple tart and the pumpkin mousse as to which got the highest marks, but the yummy bread pudding was tasty as well. Presentation is one of the many strengths of this kitchen, so each of the desserts looked dazzlingly pretty as it was served.

Ironically, out-of-towners (who read about Severn Inn in publications that mention the exceptional restaurants in a particular city) seem to have done a better job of finding Severn Inn than many locals. It's difficult to imagine going there and not becoming a regular, so give them a try. (If you don't want to cook for Thanksgiving, you might consider going for Severn Inn's Thanksgiving buffet, but be sure to reserve early.)

Here's the thing. You'd go to the Severn Inn for the incredibly stunning view (day or night) across the river to the Naval Academy even if the food weren't extraordinary. Similarly, you'd track down Chef Philip even if he were cooking in a storefront located in a seedy strip mall. How fortuitous for us that we get both, tied up in a sleek and stylish package called the Severn Inn.

WHEN YOU GO

WHAT: Severn Inn.
WHERE: 1993 Baltimore-Annapolis Blvd.., Annapolis (at the foot of the Naval Academy Bridge).
PHONE: 410-349-4000.
WEB SITE: www.severninn.com
HOURS: 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 11:30 a.m.- 11 p.m. Friday-Saturday.
EXECUTIVE CHEF: Philip Sokolowski.
APPETIZERS: $9-$18.
ENTRÉES: $28-$45.
RESERVATIONS: Yes. Reservations are recommended, especially for weekends.
CREDIT CARDS: All major credit cards are accepted.
ACCESSIBILITY: Yes.

YOUR COMMENTS

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Shubbie - 2009-10-26 09:32:59

I'm a vegetarian and a foodie. I don't like Indian

unhide Comment hidden due to low ranking. Why is this comment hidden?

M. Donnell - Annapolis, MD - Karma: Excellent

Wow - 2009-10-26 09:31:55

I find myself agreeing with Shubbie, this writer doesn't go anyplace she dislikes, I can't remember the last time she did not like a place. The reason the place is filled with tourists because they don't mind spending $150.00+++ for a meal, locals aren't going to do that on a regular basis. Always a bunch of locals sitting in the bar drinking. Try to get in there on July 4th. You will pay dearly for the view.

Pat M. - Arnold, MD - Karma: Bad

This is mean as well - 2009-10-26 09:02:18

OK, sounds great....how about this.....a bottle of Popov at $4.99, and the view behind the restaurant for free. Even if I like it, I have a problem paying $32 for a cup of soup. I used to love the Severn Inn 20 years ago, (before they rebuilt) but now, just like Main Street, I can't afford it!

Jen Rhoades - Annapolis, MD - Karma: Excellent

Shubbie - 2009-10-26 08:34:16

You are the one that needs a drink. Ever stop to think she writes this because, as she does with every course of the meal, gives the reader an average price for each drink/appetizer/salad/entree/dessert. Lighten up! Have a drink, or TEN!

Jean R. - Annapolis, MD - Karma: Excellent

my contribution - 2009-10-25 21:29:57

I am a critic of Terra Walters' writing not of her. She plays it safe and to this food explorer seems adverses to getting down and dirty in her pursuit of the good stuff. Would she go to a place without a liquor license and bring her own or go without ? This is common in certain areas of NYC and despite AA county's archaic laws not out of the question if you know your way around. And come one people , her writing ? "Crunch the numbers: Four trips, four weeks, 18 days away from work. Crazy time." What does this mean and what does it have to with ANYTHING ?

BTW: foodies, like really weird food stuff ? Allgreen Market ; Glen Burnie--bring your camera.

Fred Shubbie - , - Karma: Terrible

Comment removed by HometownAnnapolis staff. - 2009-10-24 23:46:26

Staff message: Why is this comment hidden?

vegetarian - 2009-10-23 10:59:43

Most places will accommodate the vegetarian. However, most foodies know Indian food is the only tasty vegetarian food.

review Severn Inn - 2009-10-23 10:16:55

You made no mention of what, if any, vegetarian options they have. Based on my own experience there are none. It would be appreciated by many if all your reviews included the availability of vegetarian food. Thank you.

Selma Goldberg - Crofton, MD - Karma: Neutral

Fred - 2009-10-22 13:02:03

The food sounds great, the view lovely and your attitude uncalled for. Shame on you for being mean.

e. corbett - severna park, Md - Karma: Excellent

Please stop - 2009-10-22 12:51:24

Ms. Walters, you simplistic child-like descriptions of your eating ventures do little to convince me you have a clue about that which you write. You seem to love everything and be overly focused on the drinks. We get it, you start every meal with a drink, and you are fond of words like 'yummy', 'delicious', 'tender'. 'flavorful.. but your lack of sophistication and predictable writing style are sophomoric. < br>

On a positive note, you're style is often emulated and ridiculed at our family gatherings as we all take turns describing the meal before us and world topics in your style .... it is very funny.

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