Dining Out: At Kentmorr, there's something for everyone

Four solid days of bleak, cold, unrelenting rain. Acute cabin fever had morphed into chronic cabin fever, and a severe case of ennui had put ark construction temporarily on the back burner.

I decided to exercise my option to Phone A Friend. Similarly afflicted, the friend was more than happy to join me at Kentmorr (it's halfway between my home in Annapolis and my friend's home in Delaware) for a lovely meal that brightened our day considerably. We chose to arrive at the restaurant by car, but you can also arrive by boat or, if you choose, you could fly your plane there.

Seated at a comfortable table near the fireplace, we looked through a large window that framed the dreary tableau of rain-streaked landscape and gray, white-capped Chesapeake. The ambiance at Kentmorr is rather like some of the quainter seaside establishments on Cape Cod: The muted blue of the table coverings plays out against the white walls and ceilings. The overall effect is welcoming.

First order of business for us was relaxing with drinks and getting caught up with what's going on in each other's life. The Bloody Mary, made with gin (sometimes the gin version is called a Ruddy Mary) and served in a large glass rimmed with Old Bay, was a tasty bargain at $4.50. The Fetzer Valley Oaks Chardonnay enjoyed by the other member of our party was similarly well-priced at $7 per glass or $26 per bottle. Kentmorr Restaurant has recently jumped on the wine-tweaking bandwagon and should have an exciting new wine list in place for your next visit.

Having brought our appetites with us, we decided to order some appetizers to share. In honor of the "Oysters 'R' In" promotion, we chose a couple of preparations of those as well as some steamers (must have been that Cape Cod influence).

The oysters that got the nod were the Fried Oyster Appetizer ($6 for three, $11 for six) and the Oysters Kentmorr ($5 for three, $9 for six). The fried oysters were fried well and were quite tasty, but the Oysters Kentmorr took the prize. Broiled with a dollop of marinara as well as sprinkles of shallot, bacon and cheddar cheese, the briny little gems got very high marks.

The Steamed Little Neck Clams ($7 per dozen) were fresh and delicious. It's hard to go wrong with steamers when they're this fresh. Even though it had been difficult to pass up such intriguing appetizers as the crisp-fried Wakame Scallops ($11) breaded with panko crumbs and sesame seeds, and the ever-popular Garlic Shrimp ($11), both diners were happy with their starter choices.

When it was time to think about main courses, one diner chose the Tempura Soft Crab ($12) and the other selected the Chesapeake Chowder ($7.50).

The soft-shell came with a delightful seaweed salad and ribbons of three different sauces arranged on the plate (the red pepper cream was the best). Although the menu described the dish as having a light tempura batter, the batter was too predominant in the dish. It's extremely difficult to execute a perfect tempura batter as the ice water needs to be numbingly cold and the flour should be sifted to almost powder-like consistency. The egg must be beaten to a light froth and everything must be combined without overmixing. All those elements must be brought into play in order for the tempura planets to be in alignment and, in this case, for the delicacy of a soft-shell crab not to be overwhelmed.

Earlier it was mentioned that guests may arrive by car, boat or plane at

Kentmorr. There's another way as well. Anyone tasting Chef Harper's Chesapeake Chowder would gladly swim to the restaurant if that were the only way of getting to the chowder. The guest who ordered it savored every delectable bite and then ordered another to go (reports were that it was every bit as mouth-watering the next day as it had been earlier). Boasting a bounty of fresh oysters and scallops, the chowder also included bits of ham and chunks of potato in a remarkably creamy and savory base. Extraordinary.

The rule says that you have to have dessert when it's rainy and yukky, right? Kentmorr makes their own desserts (except for the Apple Dumpling) and we decided to try the homemade Coconut Cake ($4) and the homemade ice cream ($4). The cake was wonderfully moist and tasty with a frosting that might have had a bit of cream cheese and some sour cream. Whatever it had, it worked.

The ice creams available on that day were cinnamon and coconut, and our server very kindly allowed us to have tastes of each in a single order. Both were marvelous.

In operation for 55 years, Kentmorr has been under the able management of owners Chef Dave Harper and his wife Tammy for 16 years now. They have a loyal following of regulars from the close-in Eastern Shore and many fans from our west-of-the-bridge area as well. It's easy to see what keeps people coming back: good food, good drinks, good prices, and good service played out against a stunning bayside vista.

The Harpers want you to know that oysters "R" definitely in, and available in several delicious preparations. Not an oyster fan? Then maybe you'd prefer the Monday prime rib special for $16 or the Tuesday three-course dinner for only $19.

Wine aficionados will be happy to note that the restaurant has started its wine lovers special (Monday through Thursday) in the form of 20 bottles that are only $20 each. There's something for everyone at Kentmorr.

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Directions to Kentmorr: Cross the Bay Bridge and take Exit 37. Turn right (toward Stevensville) and go five miles. Turn right on Kentmorr Road and follow it to the restaurant and marina.

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A Final Note: There's both good news and bad news this week.

The bad news is that Greystone Grill on Westgate Circle in Annapolis has fallen victim to the tough economy and tough competition. Alas, they (and their calamari) will be missed.

On a happier note, Kaufmann's Tavern in Gambrills is pleased to announce that they have been able to spirit American Culinary Federation certified chef James McCarthy away from the tony Georgetown restaurant where he has been cooking (he previously distinguished himself as chef at the Chart House in Annapolis).

Chef McCarthy has introduced a new fall menu that plays to his many abilities, not the least of which is amazing things with fresh seafood.

Congratulations to Kaufmann's Tavern and to Chef James McCarthy.

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WHEN YOU GO

WHAT: Kentmorr Restaurant and Crab House
WHERE: 910 Kentmorr Road, Stevensville.
PHONE: 410-643-2263.
WEB SITE:  www.kentmorr.com
HOURS: 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily.
EXECUTIVE CHEF: Dave Harper.
APPETIZERS: $4-$12.
ENTRÉES: $10-$24.
RESERVATIONS: Yes, reservations are accepted and suggested.
CREDIT CARDS: American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa.
ACCESSIBILITY: Yes.
 

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Terra Walters is a freelance writer and editor based in Annapolis.