Wine, etc.: Complex malbec wines should not be ignored

Don't look now, but malbec is gaining ground.

Once grown extensively in Bordeaux, this often overlooked and fickle grape variety has put Argentina on the map in recent years. But how could a grape variety rejected by the French flourish in Argentina? Did the French miss the boat on this one?

Malbec remains one of the five noble varieties permissible in Bordeaux, although it is rarely blended in the top growths. A black grape, malbec is less durable than merlot and is often subjected to disease and mildew. Although the Bordelais gave up on it years ago, it manages to do well in the lesser known French region of...