Wine, etc.: Wineries see changes just like their wines

Like an aging wine, wineries often go through dumb stages when nothing seems to be happening. Sometimes the producer couldn't hold a quick rise to fame or didn't have the capital funds to modernize his facility. Most of the time, though, the wines may not have lived up to their reputation. That has happened to Beaulieu Vineyards and Silver Oak, to name just two.

We could say the same for Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, the great wine founded in 1970 by the legendary Warren Winiarski. The wine made a name when its 1973 SLV cabernet sauvignon - made from grapes from just 3-year-old vines -beat several first-growth Bordeaux in the famous 1976 Paris tasting. The wine continued to do well for decades after that, but hit a plateau in recent years. With prices of $80 and more, consumers don't want to pay this much for mediocrity.

However, things seem to be turning a corner after a joint venture was formed between Chateau Ste. Michelle and Marchesi Antinori, which has been pumping more money into the operation since its purchase in 2007.

Winiarski decided to look for a partner when his children did not indicate an interest in inheriting the wine business. He wasn't interested in getting the highest price, but he was particular about finding a buyer who would keep his vision alive. He sought the advice of his friend, Piero Antinori, who had just formed his own partnership with Chateau Ste. Michelle. Winiarski was impressed with Chateau Ste Michelle's integrity and quality wine. A deal was struck and the new 2007 releases are the first for the partnership.

Jeff McBride, general manager, admitted the great name of Stag's Leap needed some polish. "My goal is to preserve the legacy, but drive forward to achieve more elegance and integrate innovation," he told Tom in a recent tour of Stag's Leap Napa Valley facility.

"I am confident that with the 2006 and 2007 wines, there will be a renaissance at Stag's Leap," McBride said. "These wines are more focused and speak to the vineyards."

Stag's Leap has always been about elegance and aroma. But McBride said he is seeking more flavor without the need for residual sugar in the chardonnays. The expensive new releases will go up against tough economic times when even collectors are curbing their spending habits.

McBride said, "People are doing less experimentation, and luxury is not fashionable. However, at home and in private people are still buying expensive wines. Quality will be recognized as value." Or so he hopes.

Here are tasting notes for these wines:

Stag's Leap Arcadia Vineyard Chardonnay 2006 ($45). Lemon and stone fruit aromas followed by pear and citrus flavors with a delightful Chablis-like mineral finish.

Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Karia Chardonnay 2007 ($36). About 40 percent of this wine comes from the Arcadia estate vineyards. Greek for "grace," the wine lives up to its name. Peach and orange blossom aromas with citrus and toasty oak flavors.

Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Cask 23 2006 ($130). Made in only the best years, this is a wonderful blend of the Fay and SLV vineyards. McBride calls it an "iron fist (SLV) in a velvet glove (Fay)." The name comes from the cask of wine that Winiarski and friend Andre Tchelistcheff tasted when the label was born in 1974. Black fruit, clove and licorice aromas with blackberry and spice flavors, soft tannins.

Antica

While in Napa Valley recently, Tom toured Antica, whose name is a composite of founder Marchesi Antinori and California. Located high atop Atlas Peak, Antica is making some excellent mountain-grown wines from what used to be vineyards owned by Atlas Peak Winery. The property was once a partnership with Bollinger and Whitbread, but since the 1990s it has been owned entirely by Antinori.

Antinori has been making wines from grapes grown on adjacent property on these high plains in eastern Napa Valley. Although these vineyards produce everything from refosco to sangiovese, Antica will concentrate on chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon.

Because the Antinori family is not always on premise, blends are shipped to them for tasting.

Antica Chardonnay 2007 ($55). Using several clones, the chardonnay has a creamy mouthfeel and ripe pit fruit flavors with good spice, mineral and long finish.

Antica Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($55). The grapes come from the adjacent Townsend vineyard. It shows off sturdy cabernet sauvignon flavors with blackberry flavors, full body and forward fruit.

New store

Bin 201 Wine Sellers will open later this month in the new Annapolis Towne Centre at Parole.

The wine store will be operated by John Foreman, father of Tony Foreman who owns several Baltimore restaurants - Charleston, Petit Louis, Pazo and Cinghiale. Tony, who holds a sommelier certificate and has one of the most respected palates in the state, will join Jennifer Burger in selecting the wines.

Foreman plans to host regular tastings at the store in a specially designed room.

Here are locations of wines featured in Wine Etc. The vintages listed in the wine column may not be the same at what is sold in stores. The list is subject to availability and prices listed in the column vary from store to store. Store owners can special order wines they do not carry.

Do you have a question or suggestion for a topic? Write to the authors in care of this newspaper or e-mail tmarquardt@capitalgazette .com.