Wine, Etc.: Bringing sagrantino grapes to the table

Sagrantino has been favorably compared to the nebbiolo grape which produces the long lasting, world renowned barolos and barbarescos in Italy's Piedmont region.

Marco Caprai, in his pursuit to maximize sagrantino's winemaking potential, has formed a partnership with the University of Milan to research clonal and rootstock selections, vineyard management practices, as well as a whole host of other areas of research to establish "best practices" for cultivating this unique, regional grape variety. These efforts have earned Marco an international reputation as an innovator and leader in the production and promotion of Sagrantino di Montefalco as a world-class wine.

In addition to sagrantino, Arnaldo Caprai also produces wines using other grape varieties commonly found in Umbria. We recently had a chance to taste some of Arnaldo Caprai's other offerings and the following are our favorites.

Arnaldo Caprai Grecante Grecante dei Colli Martani DOC 2009 ($20). Nice delicate floral nose, with a bolder fruit expression in the mouth. An elegant expression of the grecante grape with nice peach, straw notes. Although this grape has grown for centuries in Umbria it is believed to have originated in Greece. Would go well with most white fleshed seafood dishes.

Arnaldo Caprai Montefalco Rosso DOC 2007 ($23). A traditionally styled Italian red table wine with 70 percent sangiovese, 15 percent sagrantino, and 15 percent merlot. Some nice floral notes lead into a very easy to drink rich, full, and satisfying red wine that shows flavors of berries and cherries. This reasonably priced wine would favorably accompany most red meat dishes and red sauced pastas.

Arnaldo Caprai Collepiano Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG 2005 ($60). Made entirely from sagrantino, this is a very intense wine that exhibits a lovely floral cherry nose. Very aggressive acidity and tannins in the mouth with dusty cherry flavors and good fruit. This wine clearly needs time. Buy this for your children, or even grandchildren, and hold it for at least 5 years. We tasted the 1998 at dinner and at 12 years old it was soft and round with mature fruit flavors and was a delight to drink, and showed no signs of running out of gas. Amazing!

Arnaldo Caprai 25 Anni Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG 2005 ($100). Made from a selection of the best sagrantino grapes, this wine was first made in 1993 to celebrate the 25th anniversary of the winery. All sagrantino, this wine is even more intense and concentrated than the Collepiano with very bright powerful ripe fruit flavors and a bit of spice. We tasted the 1997 and it was very youthful, absolutely delicious and just beginning to show some maturity. If you are a Barolo or Barbaresco admirer these two Caprai sagrantino bottlings should provide pleasure to you, with time and patience.

Other wines

Blackstone California Merlot 2008 ($11). This continues to be one of the best values on the market, especially in a category that is awash in cheap, undeserving plonk. How Blackstone can make a quality merlot for this price is a testament to its talented winemaker Gary Sitton. General floral aromas with plum and extracted plum and blackberry flavors, long finish and a desire to have another glass.

Montes Alpha Syrah Colchagua Valley Apalta Vineyard 2006 ($25). Very ripe cassis and berry nose with deep cassis flavors and an amazing milk chocolate finish. A very satisfying wine that is great by itself or would accompany bold beef dishes.

Kendall-Jackson Jackson Hills Cabernet Sauvignon Knights Valley 2007 ($40). Cedar, lead-pencil nose, with a very full and deep cassis and cherry expression in the mouth. A bit pricey but worth it.

Selvapiana Chianti Rufina 2006 ($17). This is a wonderful sangiovese (blended with a bit of canaiolo). Clean, bright berry fruit flavors with a touch of cedar and oak. Good value.

Artesa Estate Reserve Chardonnay 2008 ($25). Artesa makes several chardonnays - all excellent - in different price categories. This reserve from its Carneros estate has lush, layered fruit that includes mango and peach. Creamy texture and lime notes make for a full, rich wine.

Castello Gabbiano Chianti Classico Riserva 2006 ($22). We are big fans of this Italian producer. The regular chianti classico is a mere $12 and a perennial favorite of ours. We introduce you to the reserve version, still a bargain at $22, and the 2007 Alleanza ($35), a super-Tuscan made in conjunction with California icon Ed Sbragia. The reserve is made entirely of sangiovese and sports a floral nose and full body, jam-packed flavors redolent of black plums, sweet vanillin oak and licorice.

Some of the wines recommended in our column may have been provided for review by their producers. The authors can be reached at tmarquardt@capitalgazette.com.