Wine, etc.: There's always an occasion for white wine, even when it's cold

During the colder months we write more about red wine than white. But this week we take another direction to tell you about an underappreciated white grape called torrontes. No matter how cold it gets, there is still an occasion for white wine.

This emblematic Argentinian grape variety plays second to that country's red malbec, even though it is the only one indigenous to Argentina. But in summer months it is the wine of choice. Although we're a long way away from summer here, we assume that many of you are still pairing white wine with your fish and fowl.

We like torrontes, like viognier, for its enormous fragrance -...