Wine, etc.: Colome wines impressive, well made

Donald Hess is truly a citizen of the world.

A resident of Switzerland, his company - Fine Wines of the Hess Family - owns The Hess Collection Winery in Napa Valley, Peter Lehmann Wines of the Barossa in Australia, Glen Carlou Winery in Paarl, South Africa, Artezin in California, and Bodega Colome in Salta Province, Argentina. Amazingly Mr. Hess visits each of his wineries at least four times a year, which must do wonders for his frequent flyer accounts.

Among the many wine professionals we have met in our business, he is one of the classiest and most knowledgeable. Born in Bern, Switzerland, he was trained as a...