Dressed for success Salad season is almost hee - Dress up your greens for the occasion By DIANA LOVE For The Capital
I don't remember looking forward to summer when I was a child the way I do now. I suppose that, back then, the change of seasons simply meant exchanging one form of fun for another. My family wasn't what you would call a bunch of foodies, unless that meant "Food's on the table - get it while it's hot!" Velveeta macaroni and cheese, navy bean soup, beef pot roast and chicken casserole were on the menu in both the depth of winter and the height of summer, so I didn't identify with seasonal foods other than preferring hot cocoa in January and ice pops in August.
When I moved to New York and first experienced foods that correspond with particular seasons, I began to look forward to a change in the weather. At that time, I associated winter with cold, wet subway stops, long lines at Hale & Hearty Soups, and hot toddies at the local bar. Summer meant the shore, mojitos, dining al fresco at fashionable hot spots, seeing and being seen - all wonderful occasions and memories that made the dog days of summer a particularly cherished time of year.
Of course, looking forward to summer instantly conjured up images of hot sand, miniskirts and (gulp) bikini season, so March and April became associated with grilled chicken breast and green salad, hold the dressing, please.
The warm days we've recently enjoyed seem to have awakened in me an innate anticipation of summer. This year I am looking forward to the birth of another little miracle, so I can't say a bikini is in order; however, I am excited to see fresh spring greens sprouting in my garden and am making a mental menu of tasty ways to use them. As I have been thinking about how to use my harvest, I thought it would be an appropriate time for a salad primer.
Composition
Unlike my youth, when the leafy filler I ate was more lettuce than flavor, I now prefer a variety of taste sensations in my greens. My salad must be at once crisp, fresh, earthy, zesty, sweet, a little sour and sometimes just a hint of salty. I need crunchy, creamy, wet, dry, even warm or cold, all on one plate. I don't limit myself to iceberg or romaine lettuces, instead frequently making my salad with mixed greens, seasonally prepared fruits or vegetables, herbs and spices.
Lettuce types
As you compose your salad, don't be afraid to mix your greens.
Crispheads are lettuces that crunch, the most familiar being iceberg. Crispheads offer texture, not to be confused with taste. The taste of most crispheads is quite mild. If you want texture or a salad that can host a heavy dressing, crispheads are a good choice.
Romaine, or cos lettuces are prized for long, graceful leaves, a tender heart and snappy texture. Romaine has a good, strong flavor that makes it wonderful in everything from salads to sandwiches. The outermost edge of a romaine leaf is more delicate than the ribbed interior and is often tinged with red, making it a little more "dressed up" than iceberg, which is why you may frequently see it in restaurant salads billed as "gourmet." Romaine's ribs and firm leaves give substantial texture, making it good for heavy dressings.
Looseleaf lettuces are indicated by soft, tender leaves that are loosely joined into an open head. Red and green oakleaf lettuces are the most familiar members of this family.
Butterhead lettuces such as bibb, Boston and butter lettuce have soft, buttery-textured leaves that form a loose, round head. These lettuces are tender and delicate, making them appropriate for elegant salads that are lightly dressed.
Mesclun salads are a mix of the small leaves of a variety of lettuces and greens, including everything from arugula to frisee, mache and baby spinach to tatsoi and mizuna.
Chicories range in flavor from slightly to distinctly bitter, with earthy flavors evocative of their seasonality: late fall and early winter. They pair well with harvest fruits such as apples and pears; nuts such as walnuts, hazelnuts and pine nuts; and dried or roasted fruits and vegetables. They are best dressed with fragrant nut oils, sharp vinegars and even hot dressings, which bring out their sweetness.
Spinach is found with either smooth or crinkled leaves. For salads, the smooth type is best unless the crinkled leaves are very young and tender. Spinach is best for robust or heated dressings, and pairs well with a variety of cheeses.
Herbs provide endless possibilities in salads, both in the composition and the dressing. A salad composed entirely of herbs offers a burst of flavor and texture sensations, and is best enjoyed with the simplest of dressings - a squeeze of fresh citrus and a bit of high-quality, fruity olive oil. Vinaigrettes infused with herbs can make a boring salad exciting.
Wild greens can be interesting and unusual in a salad. They include lamb's quarters, miner's lettuce, mache, amaranth and purslane.
Care of greens
Greens require gentle handling, so take care in tearing or cutting leaves. Remove tough outer leaves that won't be pleasurable to eat, using a small, light knife or your fingers to render the greens into edible pieces. (Using a heavy knife or aggressive tearing may cause the leaves to brown.) The size of trimmed lettuce is a personal preference, but keep in mind that large, floppy pieces of lettuce are not easy to eat - or to watch being eaten!
It is most convenient to wash greens after they are trimmed. Plunge them into large amounts of cold water, swishing them around with your hands to loosen any dirt. Let them soak, if necessary.
Drying greens is very important. If the leaves are wet, the dressing will not coat well and other parts of the salad will become soggy. Additionally, wet leaves do not store well. A salad spinner is best for drying; however, if you don't have one, simply dry the leaves between towels.
To store greens, roll washed and trimmed leaves loosely in a kitchen towel, place them in a plastic bag and refrigerate in the vegetable bin.
The dressing
To many, dressing is the most important component of any salad.
Some folks are intimidated at the idea of making a fresh dressing, preferring bottled concoctions instead. I've searched extensively for a bottled dressing that would live up to my culinary and nutrition standards, to no avail. Most I found had hydrogenated oils, high fructose corn syrup and additives I couldn't pronounce as their primary ingredients.
Likewise, I am speculative of "nonfat" or "low fat" dressings that use unfamiliar ingredients and preservatives in their search for flavor; "nonfat half-and-half" just doesn't make sense to me.
I'd rather get a nutritional punch from fresh ingredients and healthy oils. In a pinch I use Cindy's Kitchen All-Natural dressings, which contain no additives, preservatives or excessive sweeteners. My preference by far is homemade vinaigrette, which is actually simple to prepare and uses little fat or added sweeteners.
Viva la vinaigrette
Vinaigrette is a classic French dressing which always includes an acidic component, such as vinegar or citrus, oil and flavorings such as herbs. In the classic technique, vinaigrette is prepared with three parts oil to one part acid. Modern cuisine sometimes uses a ratio of 4-to-1, depending on taste preference, types of oils and acids, and any additions the chef prefers.
Vinaigrette is an emulsion, or the suspension of one liquid in another, where the two liquids become mixed, in this case by vigorous whisking. Actually, it is an unstable emulsion because the oil and acid will eventually polarize, an effect easily remedied by simply shaking the ingredients together again. Addition of other ingredients such as mustard, ginger or garlic to the vinegar provides stability to the emulsion so that it won't break apart as quickly.
The classic method for well-emulsified vinaigrette is to first coarsely crush sea salt and pepper with a mortar and pestle, stirring in the stabilizer, then the acid. The oil is added drop by drop, whisking briskly until the dressing begins to thicken. As the dressing becomes thicker, the oil is added in a steady stream.
A more convenient method is to use freshly ground sea salt and pepper, and to use a blender or food processor to mix the acid and seasonings, adding the oil as noted above with the machine running.
Vinaigrettes can be stored, tightly covered, in the refrigerator for up to two weeks. Always whisk dressings briskly just before adding them to salads so that the ingredients are well mixed, and don't forget to taste for balance. Toss the salad very gently just before serving, not adding more vinaigrette than is necessary to lightly coat the salad. If you have vinaigrette in the bottom of your serving dish, you've used too much.
The chart accompanying this story will help you make a variety of vinaigrettes that suit your taste preferences. Using the technique described above, choose an acid, oil and your favorite flavors to make your own recipe. Remember that quality of ingredients is most important: Choose the best oils you can afford, interesting vinegars and very fresh flavors.
Expand your palate by trying infused oils, nut oils or flavored vinegars. Pour your recipe over raw or cooked vegetables, adding in roasted or toasted nuts or seeds, artisanal cheese, and grilled or poached proteins including seafood, poultry or tofu.
BALSAMIC BASIL VINAIGRETTE
By Michael Chiarello
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic
2 teaspoons finely chopped shallots
1 cup basil-infused olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper
In a small bowl, whisk together salt and pepper, vinegar, garlic and shallots. Whisk in olive oil. Check seasonings for balance.
ASIAN VINAIGRETTE
This vinaigrette is perfect tossed on an endless variety of cooked and raw vegetables. I especially like it with baby spinach or fresh asparagus with freshly toasted sesame seeds
2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
4 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 tablespoon sesame oil
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon fresh ginger, minced
Combine the ginger and sugar, then add the soy sauce and vinegar. Whisk together the oils, then slowly whisk into the acid to emulsify.
CLASSIC FRENCH VINAIGRETTE
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
Sea salt to taste
Whisk the salt, vinegar and mustard to blend. Whisk in the olive oil to emulsify. You may also add in 1 minced shallot or clove of garlic and 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme, rosemary or other herbs.
LEMON TAHINI DRESSING
From Moosewood Restaurant Daily Special
This dressing can be made without oil. Also, you can omit the cumin, but it really adds nuance and character.
1/2 cup tahini (sesame paste)
1/2 cup water
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1-2 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
1/8 teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon ground and toasted cumin seed
In a small bowl, whisk together all of the ingredients until smooth. For the best flavor, let the dressing sit for 15 minutes before dressing. Note that occasionally tahini has a bitter flavor. If yours does, replace the 1/2 cup water with 1/4 cup olive oil and 1/4 cup water.
LEEKS IN MUSTARD VINAIGRETTE
By Deborah Madison
6 to 9 leeks, including an inch of the pale greens
1 large carrot, thinly sliced
1 celery rib, thinly sliced
1 bay leaf
5 parsley branches
4 thyme sprigs
Vinaigrette:
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar, sherry vinegar or fresh lemon juice
2 finely diced shallots
1 clove garlic, minced
1/4 teaspoon salt.
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons crème fraîche or sour cream
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Pepper
2 tablespoons snipped chives
1 tablespoon chopped flat-leaf parsley
3 tablespoons capers
Halve the leeks lengthwise to 1 inch above the root end. Soak in a large bowl in water about 15 minutes, then rinse under running water. Put them in a single layer in a large skillet with the aromatics, vegetables and enough water to cover. Simmer until tender when pierced with a knife, about 20 to 25 minutes.
Meanwhile, make the vinaigrette: Combine the vinegar or lemon juice with the shallots, garlic and salt. Let stand 15 minutes, then vigorously whisk in Dijon mustard, crème fraîche and olive oil. Grind in pepper to taste, then stir in the chives, parsley and capers.
Gently transfer the cooked leeks to a platter or individual bowls with some of the broth. Spoon the vinaigrette generously over the top and serve with fresh bread.
MOROCCAN CARROT SALAD
This salad is best when the flavors are allowed to mingle for a while. You will find that fresh carrots from the farmer's market are noticeably better than those you will find in the supermarket.
4 large fresh, local carrots, julienne
Salt
1/2 teaspoon cumin seed, toasted and ground
1/2 teaspoon coriander seed, toasted and ground
1 1-inch piece of ginger, peeled and finely grated
1 tablespoon lime, lemon or citrus juice
3 tablespoons fruity Spanish or Moroccan olive oil
2 tablespoons fresh cilantro, finely chopped
1 tablespoon fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped
1 tablespoon pecans or walnuts, toasted and chopped, or 1 tablespoon flaxseed, toasted
Cook carrots in salted boiling water just until tender but still crisp in the center. Drain, then season with salt to taste. In a small bowl, mix together the spices and ginger. Pour the mixture over the carrots, then refrigerate to marinate a few hours or overnight. Make a vinaigrette with the citrus juice, olive oil and cilantro. Pour over the carrots, adding salt and more acid as needed. Garnish with the nuts or flaxseed and parsley.
HERB SALAD
Sabzi is a Middle Eastern combination of greens and herbs, wonderful paired with falafel, Lebanese cheese or a pita sandwich.
3 cups baby spinach leaves
1 cup arugula or 4 cups mixed greens
1 cucumber, evenly sliced thin
1/4 cup fresh basil, chiffonade
1/2 cup flat-leaf parsley, chopped
1 tablespoon cilantro, chopped
1 tablespoon dill sprigs, chopped
1 tablespoon mint leaves, torn into small pieces
2 scallions, thinly sliced
Freshly ground sea salt and pepper
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 medium garlic clove, finely minced
Toss the washed, dried and carefully torn greens with the cucumber, herbs and scallions. Make a light vinaigrette using the salt, pepper, garlic, lemon and oil, checking for flavor and balance, then dressing the salad to taste.
